Gaurav Joshi

Everyone comes to Nainital for the same picture – the lake in the morning, a boat on the water, the hills behind it. I get it. I’ve looked at that view my whole life and it still stops me sometimes. But that’s not really the town I know. The Nainital I know is up the back slopes and along the lanes most people never turn down.

I spend my days on those lanes. I run deliveries here – I am carrying something up some hill most hours of the day – so I’ve come to know this place the boring, useful way: which part of Mall Road you should just avoid by Saturday afternoon, which “lake-view” hotel is really staring at the building next door, where the chai is still worth stopping for when it’s cold.

That’s what I’ll give you. I will point you to the room that actually has the view, not the one that just photographs like it does. I’ll tell you when to walk up for the sunset. And I’ll say so when something’s overrated, because what’s the use of me otherwise.

Come for the lake. The better part is everything around it – and this town saves that part for people who bother to ask.